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The Beer-go-Round

In addition to the many beer tents at Oktoberfest there are a lot of amusement park rides and activities. You can ride a Ferris wheel, roller coaster, water rides, swings, etc. I did this once with my son, Spenser, and vowed never to do it again.

However, there is one ride that I truly enjoy. I have introduced it to many of my guests and friends and I they all agree it is definitely the single best ride at Oktoberfest. It’s subtle, it’s understated, and yet it’s a delight: The Weissbier Karussell.

The Boys on the Beer go Round

So, how does one ride the Weissbier Karussell? As you approach the attraction, you’ll see that it is already spinning counterclockwise. Looking for an opening on the 360 degree bar, time your jump from the asphalt on to the moving Carousel. It is important to get both feet onto the ride at approximately the same time. There are, however, many handrails to ensure your safety. Once on board, I recommend that you first acclimate to the speed before proceeding to step two: Ordering.

Once you are ready to order, you must make eye contact with one of the three or four bartenders on board. Simply hold up your finger indicating how many Weissbiers you require. For one, raise your thumb – just like the American thumbs’up signal. For two, it’s the thumb plus the index finger; for three, the thumb, the index finger and the middle finger, and so on.

The bartender will tap you a fresh one in a real Weissbier glass and then set it in front of you. At this point you need to fork over the dough – the going price is something like 3 Euros, plus a 3 Euro deposit on the glass.

More Fun on the Karussell!

Once everyone in your party has been served, it’s time to look your buddies in the eye and say “Prost”. Gently clink the bottoms of the glasses together with each member of your party and then take your first sip. Ahhh, that first Weissbier of the morning is a special feeling, isn’t it?

Enjoy your beer without rushing. You’re in Germany. In Munich. At Oktoberfest! Enjoy the beer and savor the freshness. Take note of the decor of the Karussell, the ladies in Dirndls (or the lads in Lederhosen, whatever does it for you) . You have the best perch for people watching.

Jersey Bill and Lola

One the Karussell that I frequent, the ride is decorated with the images of women from Ludwig I’s Schönheitsgalerie. In the days before Playboy Magazin, Ludwig I had portraits of the most beautiful women in Munich painted for him. These portraits were all placed in one room inside of Nymphenburg Castle on the outskirts of Munich. In fact, even Lola Montez is here – the hussy that almost brought down the Bavarian king.

Unfortunately everything has an end (only the sausage has two). When you are ready to dismount carefully take your glass in one hand, grab a handrail with the other and ever so carefully dismount the apparatus.  You should have noticed that there is a station set-up next to the ride to take back the glasses and return your deposit. Make your way to the person there with your glass and chit and you’ll get your 3 Euros back.

The Boys on the Beer go Round

Jersey Bill and Lola

More Fun on the Karussell!

Hüttengaudi in Kohlerhof – Great night in Bavaria

Hüttengaudi = Fun in the hut

If you want to experience Bavaria unchained, you need to find a “Huettengaudi” – this is a fun-filled evening of drinking, playing music, singing and dancing where everyone really lets loose.

I’ve known the Kohler twins for years and they’ve often asked me to visit them at their small restaurant on the north side of the Forgensee, near Füssen. This year I promised to bring my group by for dinner. As it turned out, everyone agreed this was the highlight of the trip!

After a full day of touring the country-side – Hohenschwangau, Neuschwanstein, Zugspitze and Kloster Ettal we arrived at the Kohlerhof a bit before 7:00 PM.  We filed of the bus and into the small restaurant. We had the distinct feeling that everyone was waiting for us.

Michael fills glasses from the wood keg

Michael, Georg, and Karin all welcomed us and explained how the evening would proceed. It was all very serious as he explained they had arranged for a wood keg of beer, his mom had set-up a buffet of Bavarian favorites and about the two musicians. With that, I was asked to come forward and tap the keg of beer. It was set up in the middle of the room. Michael handed me the wooden mallet and told me to whack the tap handle hard and fast. It was my first time and I did it in 4 whacks, though the beer sprayed the poor fellow at a nearby table.  He was a little miffed, but happy when I said I gladly buy him a beer for his troubles. Georg, Michael and I quickly filled glasses for everyone – the first Paulaner Oktoberfest beer of the trip and, boy, was it tasty!

Tom digs into the Bavarian Specialties

We then proceed to the buffet. Karin had soup, Weisswurst, several stypes of pork, sausages, and Cheese Spätzle – the Käsespätzle in particular was awesome! While we ate, Franz, a young accordionist, played some calm dinner music.  Michael and Georg were excellent hosts and kept everyone’s beer glass filled and Karin made sure no one went hungry!

Washboard Lenny

After dinner, a Baritone joined the accordion and the music got a bit louder and cheery. Next came out the Teufelsgeige, washboard and spoons. Michael distributed the handmade instruments around the room and we all joined in with the music. When the Bavarians discovered that Christina spoke some German, she was plucked from us and absorbed by the Bavarians. Several of the locals polled us as to the german songs we knew and we had a great time singing the Cincinnati special, “Ja, wir wollen noch eins heben.”

Schnapps Ski

While all this was going on, Michael was behind the bar filling up schnapps glasses. He presented them on a long ski and we all had to take one. It was Karin’s birthday and we all drank a toast to her and sang Happy Birthday.

At this point, all order had been lost. People were jumping from table to table, some were singing and others were dancing with complete strangers. Michael and Georg had a few more surprises up their sleeves –

Lederhosen Flap signing!

Michael first made the rounds and got all the ladies to sign the inner flap of his Lederhosen. He followed up on this by making a round with the Schnupftabak Machine

Schnupftabak Machine

this crazy machine is supposed to quickly inject a does of finely ground tobacco quickly into both nostrils. Amazingly, all of our guests gave this a go!

Countering all this German fun, one of our guests gave a demonstration of the “Fire dance” with lighted poi. Given the low ceiling, it was hard for her to really get spinning, but everyone was enthralled with the beautiful demonstration.

A little more beer went around, a little more singing, and a lot more dancing ensued and all were in good spirits.  Around 11:00 PM, we had emptied the keg and reluctantly decided it was time to head back to Hotel Ruchti in Bad Faulenbach. Everyone followed us out to our bus and Danielle gave us one more demonstration of her poi spinning as the two musicians serenaded us with Bavarian music . We said our good-byes and there were many hugs and even a tear or two – none us us were quite ready to leave. ..

Danielle spins in Bavaria

Washboard Lenny

Schnupftabak Machine

Washboard Lenny

Michael fills glasses from the wood keg

Lederhosen Flap signing!

Danielle spins in Bavaria

Tom digs into the Bavarian Specialties

Schnapps Ski

Great Days in Bavaria

Thursday moring we tourd the catles of Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein. We got a friend of Bruno’s to take us though Hohenschwangau – he does the best tour in Schwangau. Afterwards we drove to the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain. Although the weather was cloudy, we had a fun trip on the gondola and ate lunch at the top. We stopped thwe bus at Kloster Ettal and our little group enjoyed 22 half-liters of Ettaller dark beer, by far their best beer. Then, we went to Kohlerh The twins and their mom took great care of us. First, we tapped a wooden barrell of Paulaner Oktoberfest beer – it took me four hits with the hammer. The foos was outstanding – lots of pork, sausages, spaetzle and much more. After dinner we had accordian music with tuba accompanyment – then the spoons and washboard. We danced and sang with the other guests and did several shots of schnapps. Meeting these guys through Planet Hockey was truly a blessing. Then Danielle spun her poi outside – the firedcance done to oompah music. No one wanted to leave, but we had to give the bus driver home. Against our better judgement, we stopped off at the Moskito and polished off 1 3 liter glass of Geiselmass

More later!

German Breakfast

I always look forward to my first German breakfast. It’s special for its simplicity and quality. The coffee is strong, just the thing to wake you up in the morning. It comes with “Sahne” – real cream, of course. The core of the brekfast is the bread – different sorts of fresh baked rolls. In Bavaria, it’s called “Semmel,” otherwise “Broetchen.” What you put on your “Semmel” is the big thing. Most everyone starts with a generous layer of real butter. I then usually go for Marmalade – often homemade. But most people opt for the fresh cheese and meat coldcuts. Most Germans also have some juice – Orange, of course, but other sorts like apricot are popular. Curiously, most germans also have a “breakfast egg” alway a soft-boiled egg. Carefuly working from the top, the salt shaker stays nearby for frequent use.

Rarely seen are scrambled or sunny-side up eggs – french toast almost never. But many opt for jougurt mixed with Muesli or fruit, or even cornflakes. Kids often have hot chocolate.

As I left my hotel in Freising this morning at 7:30, the streets were full of people. Lots of kids headed to school. It is about 45 degrees and a bit wet, but bicycles far outnumbered cars. Many were driven by men and women in full business suits and overcoats, presumably on the way to work.

Getting there is NOT half the fun

We spent a beautiful Saturday working on the last minute details of our Oktoberfest tours, calling friends, and packing clothes. Sounds like lots of fun, no?

Vonia made us our last american dinner for awhile – Hamburgers on the grill and corn on the cob. Sunday morning, I went for a short jog and then had to pack my clothes. Even with a ton of stuff stored at Hotel Ruchti, I have too much stuff to bring – though a lot of it is presents. As usual, the last hour was a chinese fire drill, but we got on the road to Wausau in enough time to stop for lunch at the Red Eye Brewery.  We stayed a bit too long and had to rush to the airport, but it was nice not having to wait too long to board. The flight to O’Hare went without a hitch and now we’re sitting in a pub at the airport trying to choke down a$10  Goose Island 312 – yuck! I shoulda stayed with the Honker’s a Ale – that one wasn’t too bad.

Our Lufthansa flight leaves at 20:45 and we land in Munich at 12:25. We are staying in Friesing. Then we need to high tail it to the Theresienwiese to pickup our Oktoberfest tickets at Augustichsenbraterei – then over to the Loewenbraeukeller and we’ll be all set. Bill and Chuck arrive on Tuesday, so I’ll be back at the airport to pick up Jersey Bill and then we’ll meet Chuck and the Frey’s at Weihenstephan – the world’s oldest brewery.

I’m hoping to get better internet service this year and will try to keep you updated on our exploits. Stay tuned!

Prosit!

Schwabenhof Oktoberfest

Saturday evening at the Schwabenhof in the Milwaukee suburb of Menomenee Falls, Wisconsin was a low-keyed family affair.

Held at the Donauschwaben clubhouse, a large pavilion and sprawling beer garden offers a pleasant way to spend a few hours dreaming of Deutschland. Lots of families were present and most everyone brought their own tablecloths and beer glasses. Music was provided by the “Austrian Express” and they played all the favorites.

There were two large bars with a great beer selection – outstanding for the size of this event. Hobraeu Original, Sommer, and Oktoberfest plus Oktoberfest and Weissbier from Hacker-Pschorr. Hardly worth mentioning, there was also Miller Lite and several alco-pop selections.

The food was good – we had the Schnitzel and Rollbraten. We were disappointed that the Brathendl (roasted chicken) wasn’t available – apparently the chicken guy wasn’t available.

The whole thing wrapped up at 10:00 pm. The crowd was definitely older, despite a handful of 20 some things running around with a beer bong!

With a table full of friends, good beer, and my favorite music, I enjoyed myself. But, this event could be so much more if they invested in some advertising. The place was only 1/3 full – with their immense facilities, a crowd of thousands would be possible!

Now, it’s on to the main event for me: Munich’s Oktoberfest! 6 days and counting down!

Rhinelander Oktoberfest Update

It appears Rhinelander didn’t do too well with their Oktoberfest at the end of August. According to an article in the local paper, The Rhinelander Daily News, “…between 1,100 and 1,200 people came to the city’s south parking lot between Friday and Saturday, and while the event had good energy, the numbers were not adding up. “I know we didn’t make money,” Swisher said. “I don’t know yet how much we lost.” Swisher said the chamber shelled out over $7,000 for entertainment and almost $20,000 total to operate the event. (full text here) Another great article from News of the North also was recently posted here – you can even see a photo of us if you look really closely!

Lots of people think they need to get away from just German Oompah music and go more modern. My feeling is that they need to go the other direction and stay more traditional. But, that also means the “fun” music in the evening – the pop music at the real Oktoberfest is so great because everyone knows the words, gets up in the benches, and sings their heart out.

Thoughts?

Rhinelander Oktoberfest 2009

Struggling to hit even 50 degrees, Rhinelander’s Oktoberfest dealt with cold, wet, and windy conditions.

Surely the cold temperatures kept many away, but it was still standing room only when “Dorf Kapelle” from Wisconsin played Saturday afternoon from 3 to 7 PM.

Vonia and I met up with my parents and could only find seats near the edge of the tent.  Dad and I raided his trunk for extra jackets to bundle up with.

It was a smaller sized tent in downtown Rhinelander with several food booths and beer taps inside the tent. Chairs were at a premium and several people had to bring in their own. The band was set up on a stage at the far end with a large dance floor in front of them. The beer was along one side of the tent and the food was at the end opposite the stage.

Hacker-Pschorr Oktoberfest was the beer of choice and New Glarus  and Miller Lite were also on draft. Surprisingly, the original 1  liter glasses (Mass) were on sale for just $12. After you bought one, it was just $8.50 to fill it up. Excellent prices and likely too cheap for them to make money on the deal.

The food offerings were varied. Of course there was Bratwurst, but also Redd Cabbage (Blaukraut) and Spaetzle. Additionally a shredded beef sandwich, pork schnitzel and several desserts. We had the Brats, cabbage and spaetzle – all were good. Later we tried the black forest cake and were disappointed that it was simply chocolate cake with a layer of cherries inside.

Dorf Kapelle dances

The band was the great attraction and they did not disappoint.  Dorf Kapelle is a large community band with a variety of instruments and vocalists. They play traditional waltzes and polkas, but also through in some of the more modern Oktoberfest favorites like “Hände zum Himmel” and even “Alice.” With such a wide repertoire, their appeal is cross generational.

The “Stimmung” in the tent was excellent. The lousy weather kept away many, so only the truly hard-core German enthusiasts turned out. We met some great people including some from Germany and others from the Rhinelander area.

It seemed like everyone was pumped up for Dorf Kapelle and there was great audience participation. I really enjoyed Gunther rendition of the Lichtensteiner Polka. They also did “Tante Anne, Beer Barrel Polka, In München steht ein Hofbräuhaus,” and many other favorites. They also did a fun number invoking the Green Bay Pakers into a German Football song. A nice tribute was done to Veterans and, later, a net little fundraiser: The band distributed themselves around the tent and played from all corners. The crowd was then invited to put money in the band members pockets which would then be used for medical research.

The Rhinelander group put on a nice program, but were certainly unprepared for such a hard time from Mother Nature. Had they put up more of the tent walls and found some more seating, they would have had people stay longer. My folks pulled up stakes by 5:30 – Mom just couldn’t take the cold anymore.

Vonia and I stayed on until Dorf Kapelle finished their set at 7Pm. We only lasted another 1/2 hour beyond that. We would have like to seen a little of the next band, but Vonia was frozen through and just couldn’t sit any longer!

Brew City Weekend

Milwaukee Ale House, Water Street Brewery, and a private selection…

A quick trip to Milwaukee to visit with friends yielded some great times, but the brewpubs visited were not so special.

Friday in Wisconsin means “Fish Fry” and we visited the Milwaukee Ale House in the historic third district. Since they ran out of the Pale Ale just as we arrived, our choices were somewhat limited. A friend that frequents the Alehouse, claims the “Pull Chain Pail Ale”  is the best offering. My first was Louie’s Demise, an amber ale. It was very drinkable, but unremarkable. A very balanced beer, this would be one you could easily drink all night. Tempted by the  claim, “Traditional Bavarian lager delicately hopped for balance,” a ordered their “Flaming Damsel.” Again, acceptable, but not remarkable. Friends reported that the Weiss was a bit thin and the “Devil’s advocate” weighing in with 7% abv, was too strong. The food, however, was really good and a live band was in action. a fun place to visit, but the beer itself isn’t the attraction. To eat, I went with the walleye fish fry with potato pancakes and steamed veggies – that was really good. Two of my friends had the “Chicken P0t Pie.” Not often seen on a menu, that had to try it, plus it’s really fun to say Chicken Pot Pie.

Leaving the restaurant, we discovered that our car was broken into and our GPS stolen. We had parked in a small parking lot with an attendent, and paid $5 for the privledge. When we got back to the car, we discovered the passenger window smashed in, the GPS gone. Fortunately, nothing else was in my friend’s rental car. I think we’ll get the last laugh – I have my Tom Tom set to operate in german with a Bavarian girl’s voice…I hope it drives them crazy!

After filing a police report, we went on to the Old German Beer Hall – better known as the Old German Beer closet. It’s on Milwaukee’s Old World Third Street near Mader’s restauant. The front of the bar was packed, but there was plenty of space in the back on the benches.  The waitresses wear Dirndls and the poor girl launched into a Hofbräu beer lesson, listing all the styles of beer. However, she won points when she prooved able to take our beer order in German! We enjoyed a few Mass (1 liter glasses) of Helles and Dunkles before we stumbled back to our hotel.

The next morning, we changed the rental car at the Milwaukee airport and someone ended up at the Water Street Brewery. I was last here many, many years ago when Brew Pubs were a new idea.  They claimed to have a Bavarian Weiss, A Munich Lager, and an Oktoberfest. Seeing those on the list, I had to try them, so I ordered a sampler. I got 11 3 ounces glasses. So how was the beer? In a word: Awful! There wasn’t a single beer that I would order again and several of them were completely undrinkable, notably the Pale Ale.

Kronen Eisbock Keg

Fortunately, things were looking up beer-wise. We went to a friend’s house just outside Milwaukee. To say he has a nice selection of German beers is a severe understatement. I started out with a Julius Echter Weissbier from Würzburg – a really, really fine Hefe-Weizen. We them moved on to the main course. Friends of ours from Ulm brought in a small keg of Eisbock from a small brewery, Kronen, near Ulm in Baden-Würtemberg. Weighing in with a hefty 7.2% alcohol content, this beer was amazing. Many types with a strong beer, you get too much alcohol taste – this one was quite elegant. The nose smelled exactly the brewing process. The color is a rich, golden brown with excellent foam characteristics.

Kronen Beer

The taste was a rich matly flavor with just a hint of sweetness on the tail end – Fabelhaft. The other interesting thing about this brewery is that it boasts a natural ice cellar. That doesn’t affect the beer, but it is an environmentally friendly energy saving idea.

Scott & Michael

After the keg was gone, we still had plenty of beer to enjoy: Würzburger Hofbräu Pils, Augustiner Edelstoff and Maximator, and I even had a König Pilsner. That was the first beer I ever drank in Germany, when I was 17. At the time I thought it was phenomenal. More than 20 years later, I’d have to say it’s a pretty weak offering. But, then again, it did open my up to the interesting world of beer!