Regensburg was founded in 170 AD as a Roman outpost on the banks of the Danube River. It now is a bustling city of over 133,000 people. I’ve longed to visit this city for years and intensely since Füssen bus driver Michal Schmid told me about several years ago.
Haendlmaier's Main Entrance
Our morning started with an unusual treat. Since one of our group is the current President of the Cincinnati Händlmaier Mustard Club, we made contact with the marketing department at the Regensburg HQ – we were welcomed with open arms. Louise Händlmaier is commonly known as the best mustard in Bavaria and is most famous for it’s sweet variety which adds the zip to a Weisswurst breakfast. The mustard itself can be difficult to find in the USA and has risen to cult status for those in the know. The Cincinnati club actually boasts a larger membership (235) than the German-based club!
Usually the factory is closed to visitors, but the made an exception for us.
Mustard Seed
Händlmaier is a stickler for hygiene and we were all obligated to don gowns and hairnets to entry the factory. The marketing director and the production manager (a beer school graduate from Weihenstephan) took us on a lengthy tour of the operation. It was fascinating to see the brown and yellow mustard seeds being cleaned and then crushed – it literally brought tears to our eyes! After the recipe is mixed and cooked, it is cooled in large vats. When the mustard is cooled, an
Packaging Line at Haendlmaier
employee needs to push it out of the vat with a large paddle – Chuck and Bill actually got to try it!
Next came packaging. Obviously, most of their product goes into glass containers, but a substantial amount also gets places into tubes – like toothpaste – and tubs for the commercial users. Watching the automation was fascinating. Even more, just some 50 people work here!
After the factory tour, we returned to downtown R
Chuck says hello to the Hofbraeu's Owner
egensburg and went to breakfast at the Regensburg Hofbräuhaus. We were flattered that Louise Händlmaier’s grand-daughter joined us for Weisswurst and Weissbier. Since she’s somewhat of a local celebrity, we attracted a fair amount of attention. The sausage was great (not as good as Karl’s of course), and the mustard was awesome.
With Brotzeit behind us, a nice young lady who is studying medieval history at the University of Regensburg accompanied us on a tour. We enjoyed the many sight of
Regensburg Skyline
Regensburg – the old stone bridge, an original Roman-built Archway, the Wurstkuchl, and the Gothic church which features one Romanesque tower in the rear. It was a bit rainy and cold, but we enjoyed her stories – especially the one about a young Regensburg lady who slept with the King and bore him a child. As she regaled us with this story, a woman clad in medieval garb accosted her and accused her of spreading unfounded rumors. In a few moments, it dawned on us that this was an act, but it was a lot of fun. Definitely a first class tour and all arranged by our
The Mustard "Spread"
friends at Händlmaier.
Our last stop on the tour was Händlmaier’s storefront in downtown Regensburg. They treated us to a tasting of all their product including some of their other sauces and even their extra spicy mustard – that was a big hit with everyone.
Mr Monopoly meets Mrs Mustard
Louise’s Granddaughter came back to visit with us again and this time the press was with her. They took a shine to the story that a bunch of crazy Americans would make the pilgrimage to the home of Händlmaier mustard. They also loved the fact that we brought along Mr. Monopoly – lots of photos with Mr. Monopoly meeting Mrs Mustard were snapped!
As we left the store, they loaded us down with present – everyone got several tubes of the various mustards – Händlmaier has made us into life-long supporters!
We stumbled out onto the street – suddenly no longer the subject of
Bischofshof sucks
the royal treatment and we walked back to our hotel. After a pitstop some went to a Trachtenladen to shop and others of us opted for a beer pilgrimage to the Bischofshof brewery. It was a looong walk and we were all so thirsty as we entered the Wirstschaft. A man came from the kitchen and informed us that the Wirtschaft was closed because of a private party expected in 30 minutes. I plead with him to let us us weary Americans who have traveled so far sample one of their beers. “No Chance, No Chance,” came the rude answer. Dejected we stomped outside and into the brewery next door. I explained our plight to the sympathetic receptionist – she was really sweet. She called the brewmaster and he came to see us a few minutes later. However, he was as rude as the fellow next door and gave us the bum’s rush. I resolved not to drink their beer.
Spitalgarten
We took the bus back downtown and walked across the old stone bridge to the Spitalgarten, another of Regensburg’s breweries. We enjoyed a nice meal together, but the beer was unremarkable. I’m sure that in the summer when the beer garden with its views to the Danube is open, it likely is much more pleasant.
The Royal SOB's at Kneitinger
However, several of us recalled the great beer and friendly service of Kneitinger and resolved to return there. We were not disappointed – the beer was great and the owner was happy to see us again.
I don’t remember how we got home….
(Thanks to SOB Mauricio for the photos)
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