We were able to sleep in a bit longer this morning since I arranged for a small 18 passenger bus to take us around today. After breakfast, we loaded the bus and drove to Kelheim to visit the Schneider Brewery – the source of the famous Schneider Weissbier.
Schneider Brewery in Kelheim
Our appointment was for 10:15 AM and our guide ushered us into a room where we watched an interesting film about the Georg Schneider brewery. It started in Tal 7 in Munich, but was later moved to this location well north of Munich. Interestingly, the Weissbier it’s famous for was originally reserved for the nobility – Wheat was more precious and was to be used primarily for bread, but beer. After the film, we got to see
This much Wheat in each Weissbier
Georg Schneider original recipe book. The brewery shuts down for maintenance work twice a year, for a week each time. Unfortunately we picked one of those weeks to visit. Since they didn’t have much to show us, however, they did not charge us for the limited tour we had nor the beer tasting afterward – all in all a pretty good trade-off for a group like ours (usually the tour and tasting costs 10 Euro per person).
Beer Probe at Schneider
Our guide led us through a tasting of the many Schneider products – including a Non-alcoholic Weissbier, which was surprisingly drinkable. We also discussed the collaborative project with Brooklyn Brewery, the Hopfenweisse. All in all, most people agreed that the “Original” was best.
The folks at Schneider were quite hospitable and we had hung out there until 1:00 PM.
Kloster Weltenburg
Afterward, we boarded the bus for the short trip to Kloster Weltenburg. This monastery is nestled between the cliffs of the Danube river and is best approached by boat so that the magnificence of the place is evident. Arriving by bus is anti-climatic, but the church itself is still amazing. This place claims the second oldest brewing operation in the world, dating to 1050, 10 years after Weihenstephan. Since we were certain to squeeze in this visit, I neglected to call ahead and we were disappointed to learn that the Wirtschaft was closed until Spring. We tried two other local bars in town, but it being a Monday during low season, everything was closed. Fortunately, Chris K had his “Good Beer Guide To Germany” with him and we zeroed in on another option in Abensberg – Ottenbräu.
Ottenbraeu Beers
Ottenbräu is small operation producing some 3.000 hectoliters per year and supplying just 4 pubs. We invaded this peaceful place and conducted our own tasting and overwhelmed the one lady who was tending the place with several “Brotzeit” (Snack) orders.
At 3:30, we met brewmaster, Robert Janney, at Kuchlbauer. Kuchlbauer is owned by Herr Salleck and it is a very special brewery. Herr Salleck loves art and he has fuzed his love of art with his love of brewing. If you could visit only one brewery in your life, I would recommend this one.
Kuchlbauer Brewery & Tower
Since many of us had visited this brewery before, Robert gave us a shorter version of the tour. The highlight of the tour is watching the dwarfs, visiting the new Hundertwasser-designed tower and learning about DaVinci’s Last Supper – a copy of which is displayed in an old beer cellar.
The tower was recently opened and we anxiously climbed to the top. Along the way there are interesting asides which pay homage to the raw ingredients of the beer – water, Malt, barley, wheat, etc. After the tour we retreated to a new building which will be used as the anchor of a new beer garden. A press agent was standing by to take photographs of us enjoying the fresh Kuchlbauer Weissbier. We then adjourned to the warmth of the main tasting room.
Abensberg Beer Cellar
After an extensive tasting, Robert took us on a tour of the little town of Abensberg. Located in the absolute heart of the Hallertau, the history of beer goes back centuries. With storks spookilly soaring above our heads, Robert took us down into the many
Beer Cellar Transport
catacombs and beer cellars under the village. Down in the cold and damp catacombs, skeletons were staged for atmosphere and in one corner, Robert had set up a table with snacks and a case of Bock Bier for us to try.
Sometime around 8 PM, Robert escorted us underneath Kuchlbauer’s main tap in the village and then back up onto street level. A special table was set and ready for us in the corner and we enjoyed some excellent food and beer. At the end of the evening, our mini-bus arrived and took us back to our Regensburg Hotel.
This was an amazing day for me – I’ve always wanted to see the Schneider Brewery since it is one of my favorite Weissbiers and seeing Robert and Kuchlbauer was great – last summer they graciously hosted my son, Stuart, for several days so he could explore brewmaster as a possible profession – we’re still working on that one 
Take few minutes to explore Kuchlbauer’s website here
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